Media Reviews

From the outside a small, cosy, very traditional pub in a working farming village; once inside, you find that owners Gill and Ian Boyd have introduced wide modern tables and sofas, subtle lighting and all mod cons without spoiling the laid-back mood.

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A clean, bright little pub-with-rooms, modern without being tricksy, friendly without being all over you, running like clockwork but thoroughly relaxed, set in a pretty village.

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After an afternoon scrambling over Hadrian's Wall it was lovely to return to an enormous bed smothered in cushions, crisp cotton sheets and a shower the size of my first flat. And after a few minutes of soaking in a hot tub watching an Alec Guinness film, I realised that a plasma TV above a bath is one of life's necessities.

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Next time you want to get away from it all, for a long weekend, or even a mid-week break, you might care to consider the delights on your own doorstep. In the time it would take you to get to Manchester airport, for example, you could be in heaven right here at home. In the second of a new series for Limited Edition, BRYAN HAYES is more than pleasantly surprised by the treasure he found JUST A STONE'S THROW AWAY at The Weary at Castle Carrock, in the north of Cumbria. FAR from the madding crowds of Bowness – and some of the more overcrowded Lakeland fells – lies a more peaceful, less ‘get up and go’ Cumbria. Away from the boat trips, souvenir sweet treats and Beatrix Potter tea towels, there is a place more reminiscent of rural France. Bordered to the north by that super highway the A69, linking Carlisle and Newcastle, and to the west by the M6, is a part of Cumbria decidedly less travelled. But for the absence of fields of sunflowers – and vineyards, of course, (global warming isn’t that far advanced) – this could be France, complete with signposts bearing distances in ‘farmers’ miles’. On the last leg of our drive through a hitherto unvisited part of our home county, a sign declared ‘Castle Carrock ¾mile’. Suffice to say 10 minutes later we still hadn’t arrived. Not that it was a problem, of course. The older occupants in our party noted that the almost car-free roads and wonderful scenery took them back to the days when driving in this country was a pleasure. A few miles from Castle Carrock the Cumbrian border doglegs its way to the heights of Alston. Here though, on the north-western edge of the northern Pennines, in a village sprung from a Roman settlement, the tranquillity and beauty immediately tick all the boxes marked ‘unwind’. Was it only half an hour or so ago we were on the M6? No sooner had we stepped from the car and taken the first tentative stroll around the village than the stresses of a busy week began to fade quietly away.

Apparently, Carrock is Celt for castle, a leftover from when the Welsh border came up to these parts. Consequently, names such as Cumruw, Cumwhitton and Cumberland proclaim the region’s history.

It’s hard to believe that around 10 miles away the bustling city of Carlisle is going about its Friday night business while here the rhythm of life moves to a less frantic beat. At the heart of the village, just at it should be, whether in France or England, beats the traditional pub, almost 300-years-old and now known as The Weary, a shortening from The Weary Sportsman, referring to the old country sports, hunting shooting and fishing. Ian Boyd, who co-owns the hostelry with wife Gill told us: "We call it The Weary because the locals refer to it as that, and it more suits our contemporary style. It is also on the old cattle route from Scotland to north Lancashire and it catered for the drovers who favoured this route because of the proximity of rivers for them to water their animals."

Aptly titled indeed and, while the modern-day traveller in these parts may be more interested in carving up the local cuisine rather than bagging the local wildlife, the 18th century hostelry remains a welcome stopping place for those weary of the day’s travails. A notice attached to the door leaves anyone entering in no doubt about what to expect: "Our chef is as passionate about food as we are about beer and wine. Whether it’s for a quick cup of coffee, a glass of one of our selected wines, or a two-course meal, we welcome you to join us."

While reassuringly familiar from the outside, The Weary’s traditional country inn appearance gives way to an interior of tasteful modernism, perhaps more associated with a trendy city wine bar. Within moments of arriving it’s evident this blend of modern and traditional has been no spur of the moment, ill-conceived let’s-make-this-pub-look-trendy decision. Ian and Gill have invested thought, energy and no little money into their project. The result is an unmitigated success with the chilled-out atmosphere and friendliness outside in the village seeping through the old inn’s stone walls. Real ales stand side by side with upstart lagers at the traditional bar, complete with tall stools … while sofas and armchairs offer a more relaxed seating option. Locals drop in for a pint or two or a meal, which is as it should be, while discerning visitors to the area book in for a few nights stay and to sample the award-winning cuisine. Sitting as it does surrounded by mile after mile of verdant Cumbrian farmland, it comes as no surprise that much of the produce used in The Weary’s kitchen is locally-produced. In fact, one enterprising 12-year-old lad in the village keeps a dozen hens, thus providing Ian and Gill with a constant supply of free-range eggs, a superb complement to the wonderful sausage, bacon and mushrooms of the inn’s Cumbrian breakfast. Ask anybody who has sampled the Weary’s hospitality and, apart from the overwhelming friendliness, you will be regaled with appreciative tales of the beautifully-prepared and presented food. Ian says their smaller, more intimate operation affords them flexibility with the food and wine. Consequently, the chefs can present a diverse and modern a la carte menu offering dishes to suit today’s well-travelled and knowledgeable diner. On the night we stayed, a typically cosmopolitan selection included monkfish tails (which were superb), Thai king prawns, salmon fillet marinated in chilli, ginger and garlic, char-grilled fillet steak served with home-style chips and Moroccan-spiced lamb. In addition to the ringing endorsement of returning guests – and there are many – The Weary has received official recognition. "We have won Cumbria Restaurant of the Year and offer four-star accommodation," beamed Ian.The Weary has AA recognition and boasts a VisitBritain Silver Award with rosette, given by VisitBritain to hotels and guest accommodation that provide exceptional quality in all areas but, in particular, in the level of service and hospitality. "We have featured in the Michelin pub guide for four years and for the first time this year we are in the restaurant guide," added Ian.

While the restaurant (sited in an extension at the back of The Weary and with a view across a small garden area) caters for non-residents, those staying over can take advantage of the equally well-conceived rooms. There’s something pleasingly decadent about lying in the bath, watching Match of the Day on a plasma screen while sipping a fine wine. Not your everyday experience I’ll wager, but it’s not long before you convince yourself that positioning the latest flat screen in a bathroom is as necessary as a towel rail. The Weary’s blend of old and new in its rooms is right on the money. Each is slick and luxurious although, apparently, the low ceiling in our room did once cause a problem for a six-foot plus doctor who had to be moved to one allowing him to stand upright. Most are packed with the 21st century techno must-haves – flat screen tellies, a DVD (films are free) and digital radio. Beds are quite literally huge, which is great for honeymooners and marvellous for those favouring the ‘starfish’ sleeping position. Plump pillows and crisp Egyptian cotton sheets are the finishing touches for a fine night’s sleep. Outside in the car park, where horses were once watered and weary drovers supped, stand the cars of modern-day visitors drawn by the area’s peace and quiet. Some are left for the duration of the stay while their owners take to the byways, which are just made for walking and cycling. Further afield, although all easily accessed by car, is Hadrian’s Wall, the bustling attraction of the Lakes’ towns and villages, Scottish Borders, Carlisle City and even the ‘Toon’ itself (Newcastle, is just over an hour’s drive away). However, it is the countryside and the villages that are the star turns of this often ignored part of Cumbria. The nearest thing to a lake is the idyllic and, predictably tranquil, Talkin Tarn Country Park, only five minutes up the road from Castle Carrock. Set amidst 120 acres of farmland and woodland, the tarn is glacial in origin and fed by underground streams. All the usual water activities can be found here, except for anything noisy … such as water-skiing. A small camping and caravan site is also available, and a permanent orienteering course is laid out around the park. Mountain bikes can be hired and there are suggested routes through beautiful countryside; a wheelchair-friendly path also winds around the tarn. There’s the Boathouse Tea Room for refreshments too, with a series of annual events including, activity and fun days, as well as craft fairs. So, for those visitors who wish to sample something of a Cumbria with nothing more to offer than clean air, great views, beautiful countryside and delightful villages crammed with character and history, without the smell of fish and chips wafting on the breeze, the message is simple... "Take a step off the beaten path – there’s a whole new Cumbria out there."